La Vong grilled fish - from rustic dish to Hanoi culinary quintessence

Linh Boo |

When mentioning famous specialties of Hanoi, we cannot miss La Vong grilled fish, which is loved by many gourmet diners.

The famous grilled fish specialty was born in 1871, invented by the Doan family in Hanoi's Old Quarter. During the French colonial period, Mr. Doan Xuan Phuc, a painter, lived at 14 Hang Son, Hanoi. Out of resentment towards foreign invaders, he joined the De Tham insurgents to fight against the French.

The Doan family home became a secret meeting place for the rebels in the middle of the old town. The family often made grilled fish to entertain guests. Seeing how delicious the food was, the guests helped the Doan family open a grilled fish restaurant to do business.

The restaurant both created a cover to avoid the prying eyes of French spies and provided a living for the Doan family. The reputation of the Doan family's fish cake restaurant spread throughout the capital.

To date, the old La Vong grilled fish restaurant of the Doan family has been passed down through 5 generations, existing for more than a century, becoming a famous address on the culinary map of Hanoi. The old Hang Son street has now been renamed Cha Ca.

Cha ca La Vong la mon an dan da do gia toc ho Doan sang che. Anh: Alamy/Sydney Morning Herald
La Vong grilled fish is a rustic dish invented by the Doan family. Photo: Alamy/Sydney Morning Herald

La Vong grilled fish is a type of Vietnamese sausage made from thinly sliced ​​fresh fish. The fish used to make it must be the best, especially catfish because the meat has few bones and is sweeter and more fragrant than many other types of fish.

The soft grilled fish have been carefully deboned, marinated with spices to bring out the aroma and characteristic turmeric yellow color. Then, the fish is lightly fried, when customers order, it is stirred in a hot pan, adding dill and chopped green onions.

Nhung mieng ca vang uom duoc xao trong chao cung hanh, thi la. Anh: Do Ngoc Anh
Golden fish pieces are stir-fried in a pan with onions and dill. Photo: Character provided

grilled fish are served with fresh vermicelli, sprinkled with shrimp paste, and some roasted peanuts to make the dish more flavorful. The ingredients are not too complicated, but all are combined harmoniously, creating an excellent flavor that is loved by many diners.

Ms. Do Ngoc Anh (Hanoi), who has enjoyed Hanoi grilled fish, said: “Since my best friend took me to eat grilled fish, I have been addicted. I have tried many different grilled fish restaurants in Hanoi, such as Phan grilled fish, Anh Vu grilled fish, Hang Son grilled fish, Lao Ngu grilled fish, Thung Cam grilled fish… all very delicious.”

In 2016, CNN rated La Vong grilled fish as one of the best Vietnamese dishes in the world. This is also one of the dishes that Tripadvisor recommends tourists to try when coming to Hanoi. This is also a dish that appears in the Michelin Guide's recommendations in Hanoi.

Khi nhung con gio dau mua chom ua ve, Cha ca la mon cuc hop an giua thoi tiet se lanh. Anh: Instagram peterandyen
When the first winds of the season blow, fish cakes are the ideal dish in the cold weather. Photo: Character provided

Today’s grilled fish dish has many variations compared to the traditional recipe of more than a hundred years ago. However, the delicacy of this dish is still preserved, carrying a part of the soul of Hanoi cuisine with a thousand years of civilization.

In addition to the Doan family's grilled fish restaurant, many other grilled fish restaurants are popping up in districts and towns in Hanoi and other cities. The price of grilled fish ranges from 100,000 - 200,000 VND/serving.

Linh Boo
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