Love story by the Yamuna River

Minh Phạm |

The Yamuna River acts like a soft silk strip spanning the city of Agra (Uttar Pradesh, India), beautifying the beauty of this ancient capital.

Yamuna is also a witness to the love story of the ancient Mughal emperor, whose legacy is two beautiful architectural works on both banks of the river.

Early in the morning on the Yamuna River, the fog was as thin as a tarpaulin covering the water surface. Each small rolling wave reflects the far-reaching white dome of Taj Mahal - where the love of an emperor seems to be breathing in the same time.

Taj Mahal - the anthem of love

At 6am, I joined the crowd lining up at Taj Mahal. The big gate opens at dawn. The first rays of the day are intertwined with the early morning fog that is still spreading. Then Taj Mahal transformed gently, starting with a yellow glow pouring honey on the top of the charming arch made of white marble. When the sun rises in the air, the whole temple is painted in pure white, like a beautiful dream.

According to the Mughals, symmetry is a symbol of Imperial harmony, so every detail of Taj Mahal is perfectly symmetrical. In front of me, Taj Mahal sparkling down the water tank waving along the North-South axis, surrounded by two rows of green trees. In the corners of the mausoleum are 4 towers, 2 architectural works made of red sandstone (the sanctuary and the guest house) located a balanced distance from the mausoleum. The four sides of the mausoleum are identical to the dome and the Quran cup carved on stone.

Lang mo hinh bat giac, noi yen nghi cua Shah Jahan va Mumtaz Mahal. Anh: Minh Pham
The rectangular mausoleum, the resting place of Emperor Shah Jahan and Queen Mumtaz Mahal. Photo: Minh Pham

The main architecture of the complex is the 75m high rectangular mausoleum with a giant arch-shaped, slightly decorated with lotus flowers. The central room has the coffins of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal, surrounded by a graceful, skillful brocade curtain. The light - dark and thick - empty blocks are used harmoniously, making the mausoleum not crowded or heavily charred.

When I was fascinated by the beautiful routes of Taj Mahal, I suddenly remembered that I had dreamed for many years of this place and now I stand here, burst into surprise. Every year, millions of people like me travel long distances to admire an architectural masterpiece and get lost in the world of the eternal love that the ancient emperor had created for his concubine.

Shah Jahan (1592 - 1666) was the fifth emperor of the Mughal empire. Under his reign (1628 - 1658), the empire reached its peak. Shah Jahan has a contribution to opening the border to the Deccan Plateau.

Shah Jahan and Queen Mumtaz Mahal have lived together for 19 years and have barely been separated. In 1631, Mumtaz Mahal unfortunately passed away while giving birth to her 14th child.

Unending pain, for the following days, the Emperor hugged his wife's body in the mist and wind. When he no longer had the strength, he stopped on the bank of the Yamuna River and decided to fulfill his wife's wish here: To build a mausoleum commensurate with the love of the two.

Ustad Ahmad Lahauri, the most talented architect in the Northern Hemisphere at that time, was in charge of the temple design. Shah Jahan personally supervises the construction process. In addition, it is necessary to have 32 million rupees (equivalent to 800 million USD to more than 1 billion USD at the current exchange rate), the amount of gemstones and materials transported by a thousand elephants, along with more than twenty thousand workers working day and night.

However, 22 years later (1653), Taj Mahal was completed and survives to this day - like an immortal love song carved into stone, forevermore in the flow of time.

Agra Fortress - the low note in the love song

Located on the other side of the Yamuna River, about 2.5km northwest of Taj Mahal, Agra Fortress has the solid appearance of a military architecture.

Started by Emperor Akbar the Great - the great king of the Mughal Dynasty - the grandfather of Emperor Shah Jahan, in 1565, Agra fortress mobilized up to four thousand workers to work tirelessly for 8 years. Brick is used to create the core with sandstone covering the outside, bringing the typical red color of the project. Therefore, Agra Fortress is also known as the Red Fortress.

Agra Fortress has been continuously upgraded and renovated during the Mughal Emperor's reign, with the largest contribution going to Shah Jahan, Akbar's nephew. He has replaced some of the old works with his creations on white marble, forming an elegant and mineral space inside the fortress. In particular, the Diwan-i-am Dynasty's relics reached the pinnacle of Mughal architecture.

Dang ve kien co vung chai cua phao dai Agra. Anh: Minh Pham
The solid and sturdy appearance of Agra fortress. Photo: Minh Pham

Despite being covered by time, this place has not yet left its splendor with a row of tall pillars supporting the graceful ceilings blooming like white marble flowers. It is hard to believe that these soft and delicate carvings are made from rough rough stone blocks. Sheesh Mahal is equipped with thousands of pieces of colored glass from Syria, making the whole room glowing brightly every time the sun shines. It would be lacking if not mention the Anguri Bagh garden that has been restored and preserved well to this day, becoming an important highlight in the fortress's architecture.

Agra Fortress is also a place to witness the last years of Shah Jahan's life. After the Taj Mahal was completed, Shah Jahan was no longer interested in the mainline. He was pushed and locked up by his son Aurangzeb in the Agra fortress. For the last 8 years, the emperor has sat in the mirror every day, staring painfully at the white marble temple on the other side of the river. In 1666, Shah Jahan passed away and was brought to Taj Mahal, reunited forever with his beloved wife.

The power of love can turn a tycoon into an elegant, romantic man, but it can also turn a mighty army officer into a weak man.

For Shah Jahan, a painted giang with a fat is not as important as a woman's heart. He did not regret anything to build a splendid Taj Mahal even though it was the sweat and blood of so many people. He was not concerned that his enchantment caused a power struggle and led to the decline of the Mughal Dynasty.

The Yamuna River splits the river on both banks and is also a witness to the love story between Shah Jahan and Queen Mumtaz Mahal. Standing on the riverbank, whether on the Taj Mahal or the Agra fortress, each person will have their own thoughts about love.

I believe that love story will live on in human hearts forever. Because Regardless of suffering or happiness, people still want to love. Love exists because of that... Life cannot be without love", as the late musician Trinh Cong Son once wrote.

Minh Phạm
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