Ao Dai designer: AI does not decide ethics, human ethics decides how to use AI

Hồng Anh |

Faced with the wave of AI plagiarizing ao dai fashion ideas, designer Huynh Bao Toan shared with Lao Dong reporters about the boundary between technology and core heritage values.

The case of an ao dai brand being prosecuted recently for using AI technology to copy designs is attracting public attention. As a professional, how do you assess the speed and sophistication of using AI to "copie" traditional shapes and patterns today?

- AI is currently developing very rapidly and is used as a tool to plagiarize designs, recreate shapes, patterns or design languages with a much more sophisticated level than before.

It is noteworthy that the copying no longer takes place directly but is often mixed and modified, making it more difficult to identify.

We ourselves also realize the increasing risk of intellectual property being exploited when design images are spread in the digital environment.

However, instead of seeing AI as a tool, a complete "threat", we see this as a reminder for professionals to pay more attention to copyright protection and continue to create unique values that technology cannot replace.

In fact, AI can be used as a "cooking" tool very quickly when mixing 30% of this person's pattern with 70% of another person's shape to create a new product. How do you see the boundary between "professional ethics/personal creativity" and "technology abuse for plagiarism" in the current Ao Dai design world?

- In our opinion, the problem is not in AI but in how people use AI.

The tool itself does not determine the professional ethics of the designer. Human ethics determines how to use and how to use AI.

If AI is used to research trends, develop ideas and support the creative process, then it is a useful tool.

Conversely, if AI is used to recreate the identity style of another designer or brand, and then slightly edit it to create new products, then the essence is still copying.

I think there is an important question to self-check: If AI is removed from the process, is the designer's personal mark still present? If so, AI is supporting creativity. If not, creativity is very likely being replaced by copying.

Many opinions worry that the "data scanning" wave of machines will lose the soul of national costumes. According to you, what are the values belonging to "knowledge, life experience and cultural understanding" of a handmade tailor that no AI tool, no matter how advanced, can learn from or replace?

- AI can learn data, but it is very difficult to learn human life experiences and emotions.

A beautiful ao dai is not only about form but also about understanding culture, understanding the wearer and the story behind the design.

Professionals can adjust each cut line, each attached detail based on practical feelings and many years of experience.

That is the kind of knowledge formed from observation, companionship and love for the profession.

So, we believe AI can support creativity, but the soul of Ao Dai – cultural values, handcraftsmanship and the personal imprint of the artisan – is still hard to replace.

In order not to fall into legal disputes, according to you, how should designers prepare proactively in terms of dossiers, as well as what standards of linkage are needed to move towards transparent and responsible AI use?

- We believe that professionals need to be more proactive in carefully storing design documents, registering intellectual property rights early, as well as building evidence of the creative process right from the first steps.

In addition, designers and brands should link up to build common professional standards in the AI era.

The law needs to continue to be improved, but the most important foundation is still respect for each other's intellectual property.

We do not think the solution is to fight against AI. It is necessary to use AI transparently, responsibly and always put professional ethics in parallel with technology.

At that time, AI will be a tool to support creativity instead of becoming the cause of copyright disputes.

Hồng Anh
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