The 4-day, 3-night journey to experience Ha Giang Loop by motorbike by Derek M. Norman was recently published in the New York Times. He shared many emotions and exciting moments.
Dozens of motorbikes honked in a row on the winding road up to Quan Ba Pass. I kept plowing and gasoline, my eyes just saw the narrow road and followed the tour guide, he was a few meters ahead.
Suddenly, the right side of the road plunged, revealing the vast scenery of comfortable hills, terraced fields and a mountain range hidden in the fog in broad daylight. I understand why this place is called the Gate of heaven.
Ha Giang Loop is also known as "Hanh Phuc Street", I was eager to know why so many tourists have been fascinated by it for nearly ten years.
From the Gate of heaven, we squeeze through the winding curves between the rough rocks, weathering on the cliff and following the green valleys.
We drive a motorbike about 90 km a day and often stop to rest, visit cafes, weaving workshops, some relics in France... In the evening, we stay at a homestay in the village of the H'Mong, Tay or Dao people.
The charming road
This route is not for the weak. The road is narrow, winding around the steep hillsides, embracing steep slopes that reach the heart and passing through many crowded villages.
I realized that having an international driving license or a US driving license is also useless. Western tourists must have a Vietnamese certificate and know how to ride a motorbike to drive here. Most foreign tourists hire someone to carry them (easy rider service) to go on a Ha Giang Loop tour, which not only avoids paperwork problems but is also safe because there are experienced drivers. Hiring someone to carry you will give you more freedom to admire the scenery.
But as a motorbike enthusiast, I could not miss the opportunity to explore the routes myself. I booked a tour with a separate tour guide and a self-drive for about 9 million VND, including a bus pick-up and drop-off from Hanoi.
The old Ha Giang, now Tuyen Quang, is still a rather unfamiliar destination for many tourists. However, this place is becoming more and more famous and the roadside stops are occasionally crowded with motorbikes and tourists.
The flow of happiness
We followed the curves in Quan Ba and arrived at a famous stop, climbed up to a sightseeing spot overlooking the small, colorful Tam Son town and saw the whole of Nui Doi stand out in the middle of the Dong Van stone plateau.
Continuing to set off, after each curve, different scenes appeared before our eyes. Some sections pass through the rugged, gloomy mountain ranges, with only a little light on the road. In other sections, we passed through rice and corn fields.
On the side of the road is the scene of farmers working in the fields. Groups of children playing on the roadside. Many people stopped to smile, waved hands or shook hands to greet.
First night homestay in Yen Minh. Among dozens of dining tables, visitors enjoy rice, vegetables, chicken, tofu... The tour guides surrounded the visitors, they happily introduced this as "happy water" and the traditional custom of inviting wine and drinking together.
Southern all
If on the first day it was like riding a horse to see flowers, to see the fields and villages, then the second day it was a quick holiday. We move at a speed of about 60 - 65km/h. Walking on a high mountain, you can hear the wind blowing through the canopy of the trees, carrying the scent of pine leaves mixed with the occasional smoke all over the area.
Some sections of the road are straight and wide enough to speed up and overtake other vehicles. We passed by other tourists riding motorbike taxis. Some are stuck to the car, some take photos for fun, others are left unharmed to enjoy the wind.
Passing Ma Pi Leng Pass at an altitude of more than 1,500m above sea level, we went to our homestay on Monday to stay the second night.
Ground road
On the third day, we passed through a more bumpy road, encountering road users, scrapers and road workers. There were times when I felt like I was riding a motorbike and was sitting on the back of a langur competing in rodeos.
Coming to the homestay to stay at the last night in Du Gia, the whole body was aching. While playing bidding with the tour guide, sipping cool beer, I thought I should go to bed early.
On the last day, as I gradually went down the slope, I rode a motorbike and found myself immersed in a state of meditation. Driving requires focusing on the present. I clearly recognize it from the temperature, humidity, steepness, soil smell, dust smell, and smell of food cooked nearby while my eyes continuously observe.
According to the last mountain guide, we returned to the bustling center of Ha Giang, turning onto the road along the Lo River to return the motorbikes. Trampoline and lock the vehicle for the last time. He was sweating, bruising and exhausted, but I felt like I had just revived.
