That is where memories, family traditions and culture quietly crystallize, preserved through the hands of grandmothers and mothers throughout many generations.
No longer unfamiliar to those who love Hue's sophisticated and culturally rich cuisine, Tet jam has long become an indispensable part of every Spring. Hue jam has dozens of types, each dish has its own color and flavor, but the common point is that they are all made by grandmothers and mothers themselves.
In the past, Hue women were taught to cook and make jam and cakes from a very young age, considering it a part of housework. Over the years, that skill not only served Tet feasts but also became a way to preserve and continue family traditions. From that tradition, Hue jam formed its own richness and uniqueness, difficult to mix with any other region.
In that flow of preservation, there are families where Tet jam trays are not only sweet dishes on Spring days, but also memories passed down through many generations. The family of culinary artisan Do Thi Phuong Nhi maintains such a family tradition!
Sweet memories
Born and raised in a family with a tradition associated with Co Do cuisine passed down from grandmother to mother - artisan Nguyen Thi Phien, from a young age culinary artisan Do Thi Phuong Nhi has been exposed to the quintessence right in the kitchen in the house.
Having been associated with cuisine for more than 25 years, artisan Do Thi Phuong Nhi (born in 1967, currently living in Ho Chi Minh City), has been and is making an important contribution to preserving, teaching and spreading the traditional culinary values of Hue. For her, each dish is not only a flavor but also a cultural story, a memory and a lifestyle of Hue people.
A long-time lecturer on cuisine expressed: "Hue Tet jam is famous for its variety, unique flavor and high quality. Tet jam is not only a delicious dish but also a part of Hue culture and tradition. It symbolizes reunion, happiness and luck in the new year.
On Tet, the jam tray is not only a snack but also a way for Hue people to show hospitality and family tradition. According to ancient customs in the Ancient Capital, in the kitchens of each palace of royal families or noble families, there are often separate jam and cake dishes. Even some types of jam and cake are elaborately prepared to offer to the king and the royal family, offer to elders or offer to pagodas and temples in the capital.
Hue jam is famous for its diversity, sophistication in flavor and meticulous processing. The main ingredients are taken from nature: fruits, tubers, flowers... many times are clean ingredients available in the home garden. Through the skillful hands of Hue women, these rustic ingredients become jams that harmonize sweetness - sourness - spiciness, both beautiful and delicious.
The "first times" are always an unforgettable memory for everyone, so for artisan Phuong Nhi, the first batches of jam leave beautiful memories. When she was young, although she had previously helped her family make many batches of jam, when she stood in the kitchen herself, she knew that a delicious and beautiful batch of jam needed a lot of patience.
It is a very elaborate process, starting from choosing ingredients that are both fresh and beautiful, then the preliminary processing stage must be on time, in the right way, and the most difficult is the stage of completing the jam batch. Each step of making contains many sophisticated techniques that can only be fully understood when done with your own hands.
However, for her, "starting smoothly and ending smoothly", the preparation stage must be paid most attention to. "Preparing very carefully, the jam will be delicious and beautiful," she expressed.
The heart of a jammaker
Hue Tet jam impresses with its richness in types and meaning, in which each type of jam has its own flavor and message. Papaya jam symbolizes fullness and prosperity throughout the year. Sweet potato jam has a buttery, light sweet taste, and is rich in nutrients, and when processed into jam, it becomes more attractive and novel than the usual way of using it.
Kumquat jam has a round, transparent shape, soaked in sugar water, both beautiful and round, carrying the meaning of good luck; and also has the effect of reducing cough and supporting digestion.
Ginger jam is almost indispensable in the Hue Tet jam tray, with a harmonious warm spicy taste, very suitable for enjoying with a cup of hot tea in the cold weather of winter to treat guests.
The elaborate traditional Tet jam tray also has winter melon jam, lotus seed jam, coconut jam, fragrant jam, sweet and sour tamarind jam, carrot jam... All of which paint a picture of Hue cuisine that is both sophisticated and rich in traditional cultural identity on the reception table.
Mentioning Hue Tet jam, artisan Phuong Nhi also shared a little-known story about eggplant jam shaped like chrysanthemums. Artisan Phuong Nhi's grandmother recounted that Cong Tang Ton Nu Dong Ao - daughter of a Nguyen Dynasty Prince - once gave the family chrysanthemums made from eggplant jam, sophisticated and very beautiful. Grandmother, because of admiration, sought to learn how to make and succeeded, but only made it a few times.
According to my grandmother's point of view, jam not only needs to be beautiful but also must be delicious and have nutritional value. Ca phao jam, although shaped elaborately, shows perseverance and dexterity, but the nutritional value is not high, mainly for sightseeing for fun. I myself have not known the recipe for that ca phao jam," she said.
In the midst of modern life, as industrial jam becomes increasingly popular, traditional Hue Tet jam trays still maintain their own position. That is the sweetness of time, of patience, of skillful hands and the heart of jam makers.
Thanks to enthusiastic artisans like Ms. Do Thi Phuong Nhi, Hue Tet jam is not only preserved but also continues to spread. Every spring, traditional jam trays are still placed next to hot teacups, to invite guests, remind them of home customs, and the ancient capital specialty quietly extends the Tet flavor.
