In the culture of the Xa Phang ethnic group in Dien Bien, shoes are not only a means of transportation, but also a work of art bearing a strong cultural imprint, a symbol of the ingenuity and sophistication of women.
Ms. Ngai Lu Seo - a resident of Lao Xa Phinh commune, Tua Chua district, said: "The traditional shoes of the Xa Phang people have long been considered a symbol of the ingenuity, diligence and perseverance of women. Girls from a young age are guided by their grandmothers, mothers and sisters in sewing, embroidering, making household items and personal clothing."
The process of making a pair of traditional shoes (in Xa Phang, lien hai) is extremely elaborate, meticulous and requires great patience. From preparing materials such as bamboo shoots, fabric, thread (burned thread, linen thread, sewing thread), tubers for making glue to the cutting, sewing and embroidery stages. In particular, embroidering patterns on shoes is an art that requires sophistication and creativity.
The main material for making shoe soles is carefully selected old bamboo shoots, dried, flattened and cut to the shape of the foot. To increase durability and strength, layers of bamboo shoots are joined together, each layer is covered with a thick layer of fabric.
One of the secrets that makes brocade shoes special is the glue made from the "mu di" root. The root is dried, ground into a fine powder and cooked into glue. This glue has very good adhesion, helping the fabric layers bond tightly together without making the shoes stiff.
The highlight of the shoes is the meticulously hand-embroidered brocade motifs. Each motif has its own meaning, expressing the people's philosophy of life and aspirations. The motifs are often inspired by nature, daily life and legendary stories.
A pair of brocade shoes currently costs from 1.5 to 2 million VND. To complete a pair of shoes, a Xa Phang woman must spend about 10 to 15 days of continuous work or even longer. Xa Phang ethnic shoes are also divided into many types, such as men's shoes, women's shoes, shoes for the elderly and shoes specifically for the groom and bride on the wedding day.
“The difference between men’s and women’s shoes is that women’s shoes are closed-toe, while men’s shoes are partially open in the front and body. As for shoes for both men and women, from middle age and younger, they are all colorful and patterned,” said Ms. Seo.
According to Ms. Giang Thi Giang - Vice Chairwoman of Lao Xa Phinh Commune People's Committee, Tua Chua District, to maintain and develop the traditional shoe embroidery profession today, economic factors play a very important role. Without a stable output, maintaining identity will become difficult.
“To solve this problem, the People's Committee of Tua Chua district has provided support solutions. Currently, the district is also implementing a class to teach embroidered shoe making to 21 students in Lao Xa Phinh commune, to improve skills and inspire the younger generation, to preserve and promote traditional cultural values,” said Ms. Giang.
With its typical values, in March 2021, the embroidered shoe making profession of the Xa Phang ethnic group was included in the National Intangible Cultural Heritage List.
