Religion is Calcio and God is Diego
As I walked the streets of the city in the evening looking for an espresso, I stumbled upon a small coffee shop called "Bar Nilo". The shop was decorated with memorabilia and even the coffee cups had the Napoli football logo. I was surprised by an object illuminated by a rotating lamp next to the entrance.
It was none other than a lock of Diego Maradona’s hair. Kept as a relic in a small glass case, displayed as part of one of the many shrines to the great player. I had found what I was looking for; a city steeped in history and reeking of football nostalgia.
On May 4, 2023, Napoli won their first Serie A title in 33 years and only the third in their history. That night, the city of Naples went wild with joy at the title many feared they would never win. Not since Maradona had the people of Naples felt such joy. The first thing many did after the final whistle was to look up to the sky. For them, El Diego was above, overseeing this sacred event.
Not only is it the adopted home of El Diego, but it is also a stunning backdrop that embraces the Mediterranean coast. This is a city that is connected to the sea in every way, and the ocean and sky are as blue as Napoli's famous home jersey.
I had some great tour guides in Naples: Alessandro Tione, Daniele Carrano and Gaetano Bastone. All three young creatives have their own way of documenting this amazing city, especially its club and how it unites everyone here. They are also huge Napoli fans and never miss a game. Since they were kids, they have been going to the Diego Armando Maradona Stadium (formerly San Paolo Stadium) every other Sunday with friends and family, and in 2023, their loyalty was rewarded...
When I was in Naples, I knew there was more to it than just a great soccer experience. The historic Pompeii was just down the road, the locals were friendly, the streets were lively, and the food was amazing. But this pizza-heavy port city rallied around its soccer team and Maradona’s legacy more than anything else. Religion was Calcio and God was Diego.
Siege mentality
Through the eyes of my local friends, I realized that this city and its people are unique in Italy. Alessandro, who prefers to be called Alex, told me: “When we win, it is not just a team victory. It is a victory of our city over another city”...
Alex explains that most young people in Naples feel the need to move north for suitable job opportunities, that employers will choose someone from Milan over someone from Naples even if they have the same qualifications, and that from the wars of centuries past to the politics of today, Naples has always been repressed and therefore feels different from the rest of Italy.
“I am Italian, but first and foremost I am from Naples,” says Alex. “When we play against some teams from the north, they hold up flags that say ‘Welcome to Italy’. Not surprisingly, relations remain tense. When Napoli won their third Scudetto, they celebrated their victory over their northern neighbours by flying the Italian flag upside down. The Neoplotians proved that, despite being Italian champions, they have not forgotten how Italy treated them.
In 2023, the Italian national team played their first match in Naples in about a decade. For many, this was welcomed, and if anything, they were annoyed that it took so long for the Azzurri to recognize Naples as their home ground.
At the 1990 World Cup, Maradona played for Argentina against Italy in Naples in the semi-finals. At the time, the media reported that all of Naples was against the Italian team, and in fact, El Diego himself openly tried to convince the local fans to support Argentina.
In the end, some did and some did not. The mixed messages and support that night, while exaggerated, did not help the people of Naples become closer to their northern brothers. The Italian media used rumors and suspicion as another weapon to defeat the “unpatriotic” people of Naples.
History, combined with the economic and social factors it brings to the city of Naples, has created a siege mentality among its people. What better way to channel that rage, emotion and passion, than through football, chanting for Napoli against the giants of the North.
Santo Diego: Patron Saint
After a brief historical background, let's talk about the man who brought this city together. The man from Buenos Aires who became the spokesman and savior of the people of Naples through the sublimity of football and rowdy behavior.
Maradona arrived at Napoli from Barcelona in 1984. At that time, the club had never won a major European or Serie A title. Fast forward to 1990, and the Argentine brought the city two Serie A titles as well as a European trophy (UEFA Cup), and even a Coppa Italia and Supercoppa.
Alex told me that people who weren't interested in football or who were perhaps supporters of other teams, all bought season tickets during Diego's years here and flocked to see Napoli's famous number 10.
“Maradona in Naples is like a god. He came down to earth to stand with the weakest, the Argentines, and Naples, his second city. Just walk around Naples or Buenos Aires, you will realize that Maradona's face is present on all the walls,” Gaetano said.
The hosts in Naples document their city through some stunning photography and frequent interactions with other locals. Everyone here has a story about El Diego. Alex took me to a particularly fascinating spot in the heart of old Naples. A car repair garage where large sections of the garage wall were completely covered with old newspaper clippings from Maradona’s time.
“Maradona was very involved in politics, he was never afraid to say the right thing and defend the poorest. This will never be forgotten by the people of Naples, who will forever consider Diego their God on this earth,” Gaetano continued.
To some, Maradona may be seen as a populist who perhaps does not practice what he preaches, but to the masses in Argentina and Naples, this man was a voice when they had no other voice; someone who would speak up for their struggles and draw attention to the social and political plight of the people.
Maradona had links to the Neapolitan mafia but also became known for his off-field charity work in Naples, regularly supporting local causes and disadvantaged children. He spoke of his background as a boy in the slums, and his desire to be a hero to the poor people of Naples. Diego and Napoli were a match made in heaven, a match destined to be successful and whose impact would extend far beyond football.
“That whole war between North and South made me stronger. I like to fight for a cause. And if it is the cause of the poor, all the better,” Maradona said in his autobiography.
Diego was offended by the “Welcome to Italy” banners that greeted Napoli fans from their northern rivals, and now locals like Alex, Daniele and Gaetano feel the same way. It’s no wonder that murals in the city centre depict Diego as an angel watching over the town from above, beckoning for the next Serie A title.
It is therefore no surprise that the whole city is dedicating the 2023 victory to "Santo Diego" himself. Let's not forget that, without Maradona, Napoli would probably never have won their first national title, let alone a second or third...
