Sea of people going to Am Duong market next to the cemetery on the 4th night of Tet

Vân Trường |

Bac Ninh - On the night of the 4th and early morning of the 5th day of Tet, the Yin-Yang market took place, recreating the meeting of yin and yang, sending wishes for peace and good luck at the beginning of spring.

On the evening of February 20 (ie, the night of the 4th day of the Binh Ngo Tet), in the area next to O village cemetery (Vo Cuong ward, Bac Ninh province), the Yin-Yang market took place with mysterious and unique colors.

This market only meets once a year, starting from the twilight of the 4th day of Tet and lasting until the dawn of the 5th day of Lunar New Year.

Biển người đổ về phiên chợ Âm Dương đêm mùng 4 rạng sáng mùng 5 Tết tại Bắc Ninh. Ảnh: Vân Trường
Sea of people flocking to the Am Duong market on the night of the 4th and early morning of the 5th day of Tet in Bac Ninh. Photo: Van Truong

According to local folk legends, the night of the 4th and dawn of the 5th day of Tet is the time when yin and yang harmonize, the time of exchange between people and ghosts, between the afterlife and the human world.

The market meeting location is the battlefield between the Hai Ba Trung insurgents and the Southern Han invaders, where many corpses are piled up, crows flying back to blacken the fields, so it is called O land (black crows), the space is desolate, with many souls of fallen soldiers.

According to reporters' records, a large number of local people and tourists from all over flocked to this year's market, creating a bustling atmosphere.

Người dân, du khách tới phiên chợ Âm Dương thường đốt vàng mã cho người đã khuất. Ảnh: Vân Trường
People and tourists coming to the Am Duong market often burn votive paper for the deceased, as a way of remembrance and gratitude to ancestors and loved ones who have passed away. Photo: Van Truong

Going to the Yin-Yang market at the beginning of spring is also a way to pray for good luck, comfort, and encourage each other to shed worries.

This year's market takes place right after the national peace and prosperity prayer ceremony of local people. Next is the opening ceremony of the market and experiential activities, exchanging goods according to ancient rituals.

Chợ chủ yếu bán đèn hương, vàng mã dùng để đốt cho người đã mất, ngoài ra còn bán rượu, trầu cau, muối, bật lửa, hoa, cây, hạt giống và các loại hoa quả như gấc, cà chua, đu đủ, cà rốt…
The market mainly sells incense lamps, votive paper used to burn for the deceased, in addition, it also sells wine, betel and areca, salt, lighters, flowers, plants, seeds and fruits such as gac fruit, tomatoes, papaya, carrots... Photo: Van Truong

Goods sold at the market are mainly incense lamps, votive paper to send to the deceased, along with items such as wine, betel and areca, salt, lighters, flowers, trees, seeds and many types of fruits such as gac fruit, tomatoes, papaya, carrots...

The market space is lit with oil lamps or candles, minimizing electric light, creating a magical and sacred scene.

Buyers do not bargain, sellers do not quote prices, everything takes place in self-awareness and mutual respect.

Không khí linh thiêng, huyền bí khu vực Cửa âm phủ trong phiên chợ. Ảnh: Vân Trường
The sacred and mysterious atmosphere of the Underworld Gate area in the market. Photo: Van Truong
Gà đen – mặt hàng đặc biệt được nhiều người tìm mua tại phiên chợ Âm Dương với mong ước một năm mới may mắn. Ảnh: Vân Trường
Black chicken - a special item that many people seek to buy at the Yin-Yang market with the wish for a lucky new year. Photo: Van Truong

In particular, a commodity that many people seek to buy is black chicken. According to folk beliefs, anyone who buys black chicken at Am Duong market in O village will have good luck in the new year.

This year, more than 300 black chickens have been sold out before dawn.

Vân Trường
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