True Saigon coffee style

Việt Văn |

Saigon for many people usually starts with a cup of coffee.

A low wooden table placed on the sidewalk. Two glasses of iced tea shimmering next to a glass of iced coffee. One person puts their feet on a chair, one person swipes their phone, the conversation continues slowly. The city has not necessarily fully woken up, but coffee has kịp flowed into every rhythm of life.

Người đàn ông tựa lưng bên bức ảnh chợ Bến Thành xưa và nay với ly cà phê đá còn dang dở. Ảnh: Việt Văn
A man leans against a photo of the old and new Ben Thanh market with an unfinished glass of iced coffee. Photo: Viet Van
Cà phê chỉ 19 nghìn đồng. Ảnh: Việt Văn
Coffee is only 19,000 VND. Photo: Viet Van
Ông Thuận uống cà phê vợt đã trên 50 năm, và chỉ uống đen đá. Ông say sưa nói về các tên gọi cà phê kho, cà phê bít tất nay là cà phê vợt ở Sài Gòn. Ảnh: Việt Văn
Mr. Thuan has been drinking vợt coffee for over 50 years, and only drinks black iced coffee. He passionately talked about the names kho coffee, bít tất coffee, now vợt coffee in Saigon. Photo: Viet Van

Some people sit alone on a low chair, red shoes stand out on a gray brick floor. The spoon rotates in a small porcelain cup, creating a dark brown vortex. In Saigon, people can sit for so long, just to stir a cup of coffee and think about something. No one urges. No one sees waste.

The "proper style" of Saigon coffee lies in that simplicity.

It could be a plastic cup of coffee held in hand in the middle of a light rain intersection, brown foam rolling on the stone surface. In front is a stream of vehicles with dim lights, behind is the sound of the city that never goes out. People stand leaning against the eaves of shops, taking a sip of bitterness, and then blending into the common flow. Coffee is not separated from life, it follows the rhythm of the street.

I also remember the image of a man patiently filtering coffee through a dark cloth racket, water vapor rising blurring the entire frame. Behind him are old photos hanging all over the wall, memories of an old Saigon. Racket coffee in the old days was called sock coffee, with a very unique taste: Thick, deep, and as if carrying the story of generations that have passed through. Each drop of coffee falls is a slow rhythm of time.

Lọ đựng hạt cà phê, phin pha cà phê... Ảnh: Việt Văn
Coffee seed containers, coffee fountains... Photo: Viet Van
Buổi sáng trong một quán cà phê ở TP Hồ Chí Minh. Ảnh: Việt Văn
Morning in a coffee shop in Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Viet Van
Cà phê mang đi (take away) cho những người vội đi làm buổi sáng. Ảnh: Việt Văn
Takeaway coffee for those who rush to work in the morning. Photo: Viet Van

In another corner of Saigon, yellow lights embrace the wooden bar counter. The barista quietly behind the mixer, preparing glasses one by one. Outside the glass, vehicles glide through like a river of light. A young person sits in front of a laptop, a latte lychee placed next to it, hands holding their chins looking out at the street. Coffee at this time is the space of plans, ideas that have not yet taken shape.

Anh Quý ở quán cà phê vợt có thương hiệu trên 70 năm ở hẻm trên đường Phan Đình Phùng (TPHCM) luôn chân luôn tay phục vụ khách. Ảnh: Việt Văn
Mr. Quy at a branded vợt coffee shop with over 70 years of history in an alley on Phan Dinh Phung street (HCMC) is always busy serving customers. Photo: Viet Van
Nhiều quán cà phê là không gian làm việc của bạn trẻ. Ảnh: Việt Văn
Many cafes are workspaces for young people. Photo: Viet Van

Ngày mưa Sài Gòn. Ảnh: Việt Văn
Rainy day in Saigon. Photo: Viet Van

Old and new Saigon in the same morning.

And somewhere, a man leans against a picture of the old and new Ben Thanh market. Next to him is an unfinished cup of iced coffee. Behind is the image of the city of 1962, ahead is the sound of the current car. He smiles, as if all changes can be accepted, as long as there is still a cup of coffee in the morning.

Chuyện buổi sáng. Ảnh: Việt Văn
Morning story. Photo: Viet Van
Ly cà phê muối cho năng lượng buổi sáng (một quán cà phê trên đường Pasteur - TP Hồ Chí Minh). Ảnh: Việt Văn
A glass of salt coffee for morning energy (a coffee shop on Pasteur street - Ho Chi Minh City). Photo: Viet Van

The true style of Saigon coffee does not lie in the brand or price. It lies in the way people raise their glasses, let the bitterness touch the tip of their tongue, and then exhale slowly. In the patience to wait for each drop to drop. In the silence between two stories. In the moment we realize we truly belong to this place.

A glass of ice black. A low chair. A Saigon that is both bustling and very gentle.

And the flow of life just kept flowing.

Việt Văn
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