The ancestral land of Hung Temple - Phu Tho has a famous waterway junction, the Bach Hac junction, the intersection of the Red River, Da River and Lo River. These are all famous rivers of Vietnam throughout the nation's history.
That place is also a gathering place for precious species such as Anh Vu fish, Chien fish, Dam xanh fish and Lang fish, famous fish species that are both precious for their high value and rare and difficult to find because some are the size of water monsters. Residents of the Bach Hac intersection consider them as river and water fortunes that heaven has bestowed upon them.
Among the 3 rivers, the Lo River and Da River bestow many more precious fish because they have suitable habitats. The name "Da River water monster" refers to precious fish such as anh vu, chien, dam xanh living in black water, very suitable for the saying "Mountain goat, Da River fish". However, the catfish spotted in the Lo River is also no less famous.
Because the meat of Hemibagrus fish has made the world-famous fish cake, honored by CNN (USA) as one of the delicious dishes to taste when coming to Vietnam in 2019. Not only that, food critic Patricia Schultz also included this Hemibagrus fish cake in the book "1,000 places to know before you die".
And then, many "cha ca lang" feasts have been served to high-class delegations, not just spreading in the tourism industry like other dishes. So how delicious is "cha ca lang" to create such a terrible reputation that resonates throughout the inland and overseas?
Firstly, the fish cake dish has a proper "noble family" origin, which was originally a creation of the Doan family residing on Hang Son street during the French colonial period, now Cha Ca street. Remember that in Hanoi's old streets, this may be the only case where the street name is changed because of a row of fish cakes, a dish of fish cake.
In the legendary layer surrounding the fish cake dish of the Doan family, there is a camouflage to cause an uprising against the French under the flag of "Sacred Tiger Yen The" Hoang Hoa Tham. The restaurant is a place to contact, meet, and hide the insurgents, while the fish cake dish is both to be a treasure and to treat the brothers.
Hemibagrus fish cake is indeed a unique culinary creation. It is not an ordinary fish cake like pounding or grinding fish into a fine mixture and then mixing it into cakes, then frying or steaming. Hemibagrus fish cake is more like a fan cake of bun cha dish, because it all has the stage of clipping bamboo sticks or grills and then grilling on charcoal.
But if the grilled fish cake consists of marinated fresh meat that is fanned on charcoal until cooked, then the Hemibagrus fish cake only needs to be grated on the surface, then placed in the pan with scallions and dill. Just a little pork fat to reduce sticking to the pan and create a fragrant smell with a burnt coal stove.
Not all types of fish can make fish cakes, but it must be fish with chewy, flexible meat, few bones, and not too fishy. Thus, we immediately know that types of fish such as grass carp, carp, silver carp, carp cannot make delicious fish cakes, but must be fish like snakehead fish, i.e. snakehead fish.
It is rumored that in the past, Lady Doan used Anh Vu fish - a type of fish offered to the king - to make fish cakes. That's the first class, but it's just a legend, because where do we get Anh Vu fish now, especially eating in a luxurious way, only taking 2 pieces of fillet on the side.
Therefore, Hemibagrus takes the opportunity to take the throne, becoming the most delicious fish cake because Hemibagrus is more readily available, and also of the high-end type, especially Hemibagrus dipped in the Lo River. Hemibagrus meat is fresh, sweet, chewy, soft and juicy but not easily mushy and has no small bones, better than snakehead fish that is only suitable for cooking fermented porridge.
Making catfish patties is not too elaborate but requires meticulousness, especially in the processing of fish and preparing accompanying accessories. After washing the fish, use a knife to cut both sides of the ribs to filter the fillet, then cut each piece of fish meat thin enough and marinate with many spices such as galangal, fermented rice, fish sauce, turmeric, pepper... ...
Keep the mixture in a cool place for 2 hours so that the spices absorb evenly into the fish, then clamp it with a bamboo stick and grill it over a hot charcoal stove. The fish must be grilled golden brown on both sides, not too charred or overheated. At this time, the stove must be prepared and placed on the dining table.
Around it, things to eat with fish cakes had to be displayed such as a bowl of dark purple shrimp paste with fresh lemon, foamed fresh chili; a plate of roasted peanuts with golden peel, crispy; a plate of fragrant Lang with purple flesh, fragrant green leaves; a plate of spicy sliced shallots; a plate of clam vermicelli cut in half or three, or using fresh vermicelli... ...
On the stove, place a cast iron pan and drop a spoonful of pork fat. When the fat is hot and thick, remove the grilled, golden brown catfish clips and put them in the pan. Next, add a little scallions, cut into sections about 5cm long, fennel cut in half and quickly stir or shake the pan so that the ingredients both get heat and blend together.
Onions and dill are medium-rare, fragrant but still green. Pick up the fish in a bowl, then arrange vermicelli, herbs, chopped onions, roasted peanuts, and then pour a spoonful of shrimp paste on top. Then, enjoy the perfect fish cake, then put the fish back in the pan and repeat the process.
The piece of catfish is crispy and sweet in a very luxurious way, creating small sounds when chewing. That crispness cannot be found in snakehead fish, which live in peaceful ponds and lakes, without storms like in the Lo or Da rivers. The deliciousness of catfish is highly appreciated because it contains beneficial micronutrients for the body.
Next to a pan of Hemibagrus fish cake on a chilly day, Ban is an extremely wonderful time. From the warmth of the red stove, the sizzling sound of fat, fish and dill emitting a fragrant smell, then meticulously picking each item to create a complete, neat piece, until the flavor of shrimp paste rises, enveloping everything and liberating a joy when enjoying delicious food.
