Sardines heading upstream to Pho Hien
These days, the Red River section flowing through Pho Hien ward, Hung Yen province becomes much more bustling than usual. Herds of sardines from the sea follow the water back to the river to reproduce, creating a typical fish season lasting from about February to April of the lunar calendar.
According to natural laws, female sardines will cross the flowing water to return to the place where they were born before to lay eggs. This survival cycle has created seasonal aquatic resources for riverside fishermen.
Although there are many similar river sections, it is not understood why the area through Pho Hien is the place where sardines are concentrated the most, attracting not only local fishermen but also people from neighboring provinces such as Ninh Binh to fish.
Sardines are not large, only slightly larger than crucian carp, but have very unique characteristics: flat body, silvery eyes, clear eyes, small head, tiny scales and long "flag" on the back. The fish meat is thick, fatty, fragrant, and has eggs, so it is considered by the people as a seasonal specialty, like a "gift from heaven".
On the river, boats lined up to cast nets day and night. The originally peaceful space suddenly became bustling with the sound of engines, waves crashing, and calls for each other. When the boats docked, fresh fish were quickly brought ashore, creating a bustling trading scene.
This year, sardines production has somewhat decreased, causing prices at the wharf to increase, ranging from 30,000 to 50,000 VND/kg. After being brought to the market, the fish are clearly classified: large fish (about 10 fish/kg) are usually supplied to restaurants or transported to provinces and cities; smaller fish are sold retail or processed into dishes such as sardines cakes, serving people's needs.
Hardship following the tide
At Vu Dien ferry wharf (Pho Hien ward, Hung Yen province), in the midday sun, Mr. and Mrs. Tran Van Dao are busy bringing fish from the boat compartment ashore. Baskets of sparkling fresh sardines are quickly purchased by traders, closing a fishing trip that lasted from the night before.
According to Mr. Dao, the sardines profession depends a lot on "heaven's fortune". "Sometimes people who go first cast nets and only catch a few kilograms, but people who go later catch a whole school of large fish weighing up to ten kilograms. Sardines go in schools, so whether they win or not is often lucky," he shared.
Through many years of experience, he said that days with easterly winds are usually a more favorable fishing time.
To follow the profession, each family must invest significantly. With conventional fishing methods, the cost of building boats, installing engines and buying nets is about 40-50 million VND. Those who invest more can spend up to 400-500 million VND for high-capacity boats. However, the use of electricity - a form of destructive exploitation has been strictly prohibited and handled by functional agencies.
Not only is it a story of making a living, sardines are also associated with the lives of people living along the river. At a local market, Ms. Nguyen Thi Hang (resident of Hong Chau ward, Hung Yen province) said: "Sardines this season are very fresh, fatty and have eggs, so my family often buys them to braise or fry. Although the price is a little higher, it is still worth it, because this is natural fish, only available seasonally.
Although there are still many hardships and precariousness with each batch of nets, each sardines season still carries the hope of fishermen. When nature favors and bestows "heaven's fortune", the Red River not only feeds people but also preserves a unique lifestyle, creating a unique rhythm of life in Pho Hien land.
