Step 1: Create drainage slope
After completing the reinforced concrete part, it is necessary to create a slight slope for the bathroom floor, facing the drain pipe (the lowest point). Under the doorway, a small brick steps should be built to prevent water from overflowing. Finally, apply a layer of rough mortar to the entire floor and steps, ensuring water can flow in the right direction.
Step 2: Make a waterproof layer
When the base layer is dry, apply a waterproof primer to the floor, walls (about 1.2 m high) and the door threshold area. After 2 days, continue to apply the first waterproof layer. When dry, apply a second layer to increase effectiveness, and carefully check if there are any gaps.
Step 3: Create auxiliary vents
This is an important step but is often overlooked. After the waterproofing is done, you need to drill a few small holes at the junction between the drain pipe and the waterproofing layer. These holes help prevent water from settling underneath but have a way out, avoiding mold and reverse seepage.
Step 4: Line the floor tiles
When tiling, it is necessary to maintain the correct slope so that water does not stagnate. Then, cut the drain pipe horizontally to the floor and install an insect repellent lid. An important note is to use a saw to cut the pipe, do not use a hammer to hit it down because it can damage the waterproofing layer that has been constructed before.
Many people often only do step 2 and step 4, skipping step 1 and 3, while these are the steps that determine drainage and long-term waterproofing.
In addition, the door threshold is also very easy to be damaged. If the waterproofing is done and then the door threshold is installed separately, the waterproofing layer in this area will be exposed. This makes water easily leak out, causing damage to wooden floors, carpets and surrounding furniture.