Hanoi, faith and hope

Quang Minh |

The surface of Hoan Kiem Lake is still shimmering with clouds and sky, even more radiant with the fragrance of the capital's flowers...".

Hoan Kiem Lake past and present

The above lyrics in the song "Hanoi, Belief and Hope" by musician Phan Nhan I first heard right at Hoan Kiem Lake, in 1984 when the Capital was in a vibrant atmosphere celebrating the 30th anniversary of the Capital Liberation Day.

That was the day I - a child under 10 years old, living in Ha Dong, was taken by my father to Hoan Kiem Lake by train. In the clanging sound of the train in those years, the lyrics on the loudspeaker echoed, majestic.

That day, my father and I went down to the subway station, where later people built a high-rise building, still called Ham Ca Map, to Ba Kieu temple, passed through But tower, across The Huc bridge to Ngoc Son temple, where the giant turtle specimen still remains associated with the legend of returning the precious sword to the golden turtle of King Le Thai To.

In thousands of years of Thang Long - Hanoi history, there is rarely a space that converges many layers of memories like Hoan Kiem Lake. Amidst the changes over time, Hoan Kiem Lake still retains its own character. That is the persistence of Vietnamese culture, the ability to adapt to survive, the way a city receives new influences without losing its identity.

There are stories about Hoan Kiem Lake that have accompanied Vietnamese people through many generations. Among them, the legend of King Le Thai To returning the sword to Long Quan after defeating the Minh invaders is always a special symbol. The lake surface, therefore, not only holds water, but also contains memories of the aspiration for independence, patriotism and the desire for peace of the nation. Turtle Tower in the heart of the lake has long become an image associated with that legend, like a sacred silence in the bustling urban space.

If Hanoi is a big book, then Hoan Kiem Lake is probably the most read book page. Because there, each work tells a story.

Ngoc Son Temple tells stories about beliefs, morality and the spirit of pursuing goodness. Pen Tower evokes the tradition of studiousness and respect for knowledge of Vietnamese people. The Huc Bridge with the name meaning "keeping the beautiful light of the sun" is like a message about faith, about the connection between the past and the future.

Those works are not large in scale, not massive but have a strange vitality. It is the smallness but sophistication that creates a very Vietnamese beauty: Not ostentatious but profound, simple but sustainable.

Photographer Viet Van described: "When dawn rises, the clear lake surface reflects the blue sky, the rows of trees shading the banks create a peaceful scene. At noon, the lake water shines with jade green, blending with the brilliant red color of The Huc bridge - the bridge leading to Ngoc Son Temple, where Saint Tran Hung Dao and outstanding cultural figure Nguyen Van Sieu are worshiped. In the afternoon, Hoan Kiem Lake puts on a contemplative and romantic beauty.

The last rays of sunshine gently fall, dyeing the water surface yellow. The silent trees cast shadows down on the lake, blending into the faint sky, creating a beautiful natural picture like poetry. When night falls, Hoan Kiem Lake does not sink into silence but becomes bustling. Crowds of people busily strolling, laughing, creating a bustling urban rhythm.

Hoan Kiem Lake is not only beautiful because of its scenery but also because of the cultural and historical values it brings. This is a place that every Hanoi citizen feels proud of, a must-visit destination for anyone visiting this thousand-year-old city. Whether it is a peaceful morning or a bustling night, Hoan Kiem Lake is still the heart of Hanoi, a place connecting the past with the present, preserving traditional values and Vietnamese national identity”.

Researcher Nguyen Ngoc Tien also meticulously counted his steps when he strolled around Hoan Kiem Lake. He counted 5,678 steps and then the book "5,678 steps around Hoan Kiem Lake" was published in 2002. Collected stories such as Building statues of kings to build Thang Long and elevate Dai Viet, Bach Hoa Tong Hop and the "phe phay" profession; Old woman fortune-telling; People tailoring suits for politicians in Indochina... to the story of the prostitute committing suicide at Turtle Tower; the story of Kem Bo Ho, Tam Quat, Xam Bo Ho, Ngoc Son Temple... have created a fairly complete picture of Hanoi, Hoan Kiem Lake past and present.

Hoan Kiem Lake of the future

Hanoi is seeking community opinions on the Partial Adjustment of Urban Subdivision Planning H1-1B (Hoan Kiem Lake area and surrounding areas), scale 1/2000 and part of Urban Subdivision Planning H1-1C, scale 1/2000 combined with Detailed Planning solution, scale 1/500 for renovation, embellishment, reconstruction, spatial reconstruction of Hoan Kiem Lake area and surrounding areas.

The overall idea is to study organizing Hoan Kiem Lake space as a large square - a symbol of the Capital, combined with August Revolution Square and the Opera House to form the space "History - Culture - Art".

The focus is on expanding connections around the lake, especially in the North and East; rebuilding and restructuring community living spaces, squares and green parks; renovating and embellishing key architectural works; creating a harmonious connection between old and new architectures; organizing diverse and flexible spaces to serve activities and events of the Capital.

According to the plan being consulted, in the area of the City People's Committee headquarters, it is expected to arrange a new 9-story above-ground building, 4 basements on the basis of restructuring the land area; study demolition of the People's Council headquarters, City People's Committee, Red Scarf Theater and the Children's Palace building; it is expected to retain 3 French architectural blocks including: Children's Hospital, Indochina Treasury and Governor's Palace.

For the Hanoi Post Office area, the plan to study the dismantling of some architectural works that are not suitable; and at the same time study solutions to evoke and recreate the image and architectural morphology characteristic of the old Bao An Pagoda in the central space within the Post Office campus. Other areas around Hoan Kiem Lake will be arranged and reorganized.

In fact, the local adjustment of urban sub-area planning in the Hoan Kiem Lake area and its vicinity is an issue that has been discussed for a long time, but through each stage, the approach has changed and therefore the implementation has not really achieved the desired results.

This planning adjustment is comprehensive, aiming to expand connecting space; restructure and rebuild the area; renovate and embellish the city; and create more diverse spaces in the Hoan Kiem Lake area.

The opinion poll also shows Hanoi's receptiveness and listening. But no matter what, the Hoan Kiem Lake area will still be a special cultural space and will forever be the spiritual and cultural heart of Hanoi and the whole country.

Hồ Gươm hiện tại. Ảnh Thành Đạt, chụp tháng 9.2026
Hoan Kiem Lake currently. Photo by Thanh Dat, taken in September 2026
Quang Minh
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