Different from the usual contemplativeness of Northern pagodas, this place is an interesting blend of traditional Vietnamese Buddhist architecture and the brilliant, mysterious colors of Buddhism.
Ancient pagoda with a "huge" history
About 15km south of the center of Hanoi (belonging to Binh Minh commune), Thang Nghiem Pagoda is located in a large relic complex that local people commonly call Khuc Thuy Pagoda. According to stories passed down by ancestors, from the 180s - 260s, monks from India came here to preach. Initially, this place only had a small tower to worship Buddha's relics, which people simply called "Muffin of Buddha".
Besides the legend, "Dai Viet Su Ky Toan Thu", part of the Ly Dynasty Chronicles, Thai To Emperor's reign, records that: "In 1010, autumn, July, King Ly Thai To moved the capital from Hoa Lu citadel to the capital in Dai La citadel... Again, in the citadel, he built Hung Thien and Ngu Phuong temples. Outside the citadel, Thang Nghiem temple was built in the South...". The Tran Dynasty renamed the pagoda Tri Long, Tri Bong. During the Later Le Dynasty, it was renamed Lien Tri. The Nguyen Dynasty recorded the name Phuc Dong. Today, the people are used to using the name Khuc Thuy pagoda based on the administrative place name. The current Han-Nom heritage treasure of the relic proudly preserves 34 imperial decrees bestowed by many dynasties.
The mossy Zen hall space once surrounded and nurtured outstanding talents for the Dai Viet nation. The Ly - Tran period witnessed Thang Nghiem Pagoda becoming the pillar of cultivation for a series of great monks. Zen masters Khuong Viet, Van Hanh, Trung Lien Bao Tich, Dao Huyen, Huyen Thong (ie Linh Thong Hoa Thuong Dai Vuong) all left their marks of cultivation here. More specifically, according to the "Tran Trieu Su Tich" currently preserved at the pagoda, Thang Nghiem Pagoda once nurtured national hero Tran Hung Dao. Zen master Dao Huyen took on the responsibility of training and imparting knowledge to him from the age of 7 until adulthood, creating a solid ideological foundation for the historical great man.
After a long period of fighting against the ups and downs of history, the relic complex fell into desolation due to the consequences of two wars against foreign invaders, two periods of Buddhist chastity and the continuous encroachment of nature. The fierce war period witnessed the mobilization of architectural works and self-reliance assets to serve the resistance. Folk people witnessed the loss and destruction of valuable documents. The real restoration began to sprout from the late 19th to early 20th centuries. At that time, Governor-General of Ha Dong Hoang Cao Khai and his son Hoang Trong Phu carried out a major restoration of this ancient pagoda complex.
Unique architectural combination
Through time and war bombs, Thang Nghiem Pagoda once fell into desolation and ruins. The biggest turning point came in 1997, when Venerable Thich Minh Thanh came to take over and started a major restoration project, bringing a completely new face to the pagoda.
The abbot decided to build the pagoda in the direction of Vajra Buddhism. Stepping into the pagoda, the first impression that will strike your eyes will be extremely bright colors. Instead of the murky mossy walls, Thang Nghiem puts on a massive honeycomb stone wall system combined with yellow, red, brown colors - looking at it at first glance, it feels like you are lost in a pagoda in Nepal or Bhutan.
But the soul of Vietnamese architecture is still not lost. The bright red tiled roof with dragon and phoenix shapes, the majestic three-entrance gate and the sophisticatedly carved wooden pillars are still preserved. It is the harmony between familiar traditional features and brilliant foreign colors that has created a "unique" beauty for this relic.
Entering the Tam Bao Palace, you will see statues of jacket wood lacquered in gold carved in the old Northern style. Surrounded by hundreds of tiny gold-plated Buddha statues sitting on lotus pedestals, creating an extremely sacred and magnificent space. Going out to the yard, the focus of attention is the bronze Shakyamuni Buddha statue weighing 10 tons, 5 meters high, sitting peacefully on a lotus pedestal in the middle of a clear lake.
The Buddhist symbol of Buddhism brings peace
If you are observant, you will recognize many typical symbols of Buddhism Theravada arranged everywhere. The pagoda has a tomb tower built in the shape of a stupa extending straight to the blue sky.
The most enjoyable thing is that along the campus there are rows of shiny bronze "Kinh Luan" (prayer wheels). Inside each wheel are hidden tens of thousands of "Om Mani Padme Hum" spells. It is believed that when you stroll and use your hands to gently rotate these wheels, each rotation is equivalent to you having finished reading that many sutras, bringing countless good and peaceful energy.
Not only that, five-colored flags flying in the wind are also hung throughout the pagoda courtyard. The 5 colors of the flag symbolize the wisdom of the Buddha, when the wind blows through, it will help spread good things, dispel bad luck.
Today, Thang Nghiem is not just a historical relic. Along with Van Nien Pagoda and Long Quang Pagoda, this place forms extremely attractive Pagodas with the influence of Mật tông art in the Capital. Not only welcoming older people to pilgrimage and chant sutras, Khuc Thuy Pagoda is now also a place that young people come to very crowded. They come to admire the strange architecture and most importantly to find a small peaceful corner, putting aside the hustle and bustle and worries of modern life.
Contrary to the contemplative mossy appearance often seen in Northern pagodas, Thang Nghiem Pagoda makes a strong impression by the interesting mix between the traditional Vietnamese Buddhist architecture and the brilliant, mysterious colors of the Diamond Secret. The skillful harmony between the curved red tiled roof, the majestic three-entrance gate and the massive walls with characteristic yellow, red, and brown colors has brought the ancient pagoda a spiritual appearance that is both magnificent and peaceful.
