Memories of a busy time on Dam Street

QUÁCH DU |

Pho Dam Street (in Tho Xuan District, Thanh Hoa Province) used to be a bustling trading port. After hundreds of years, the bustling atmosphere of the past is now only in memories.

A time of chaos

Dam Street is located in Quang Ich village, Xuan Thien commune, Tho Xuan district, Thanh Hoa province. This was once the busiest commercial neighborhood in Thanh Hoa in the early 20th century.

Net kien truc con sot lai cua Pho Dam, mot thoi sam uat cach day ca tram nam. Anh: Quach Du
The remaining architectural features of Dam Street, a bustling time a hundred years ago. Photo: Quach Du

Quang Ich village is located on the banks of the Chu River, with deep river terrain and relaxing beaches, and is a trading point between mountainous districts and the plains. Therefore, people from all over such as Nam Dinh, Ha Nam, Phu Tho, Ha Tinh... and also the French, Thai, and Chinese have migrated to this land to live and trade.

Mr. Pham Van Cuong (95 years old, in Quang Ich village) said that in the past, Xuan Thien commune was famous for two locations: Dam ferry terminal and Dam market (therein people called Dam street). Hundreds of years ago, this place was once very bustling with many items such as textile and dyeing workshops, blacksmithing, gold trading, traditional medicine... At that time, there were many wives of French civil servants (called "ghost- dam" or "madame") who opened stores to trade, built solid houses, and created streets. As the population increased, this place officially established Quang Ich village (also known as Dam street). The word "Dam Street" is also the way to call the word "ma-dam".

Cu Pham Van Cuong van giu nghe cat toc, cai nghe da giup cu “kiem com” rat tot thua xua. Anh: Quach Du
Mr. Pham Van Cuong still keeps the profession of barbering, the profession that helped him " earning a living" in the past. Photo: Quach Du

"At that time, people came here to trade very richly. They earn so much money and gold that they put it in the avocado ong (orsely stewed) and put it under the bed," Mr. Cuong recalled.

According to the elders, Dam Street was formed in 1838 (early 20th century), developed bustlingly in 1905, and maintained for about 50 years. Dam Market meets 6 times a month. Local people live in the village, going to the market and ferry terminal every day to work for hire for traders. Workers who work as porters also make a very good living.

Khu cho noi Pho Dam ngay nay, da khong con tap nap, sam uat nhu xua. Anh: Quach Du
The market in Pho Dam today is no longer as bustling and bustling as before. Photo: Quach Du

Over time and the changes of history, Dam street no longer retains its central position as before. Business households are gradually moving to new lands. Local people have taken over the villas to renovate, live and trade until today.

Still in memory

Ms. Cao Thi Duc (85 years old, residing in Quang Ich village) said that she is currently living with her sister-in-law in an ancient house of hundreds of square meters, built more than 100 years ago. Mr. Duc also did not know exactly when this house was built, only remembering that when he returned as a daughter-in-law, he had this house.

Cu
The years of returning to the picturesque Dam Street are now only in the "memory" of Mr. Cao Thi Duc. Photo: Quach Du

"Previously, Dam market was the second largest market in the province, a place to gather goods, a messy warehouse, and a bustling restaurant. Every market session, the noise of people is bustling from early morning until late at night. Over time, war and changes in life, Dam street is no longer the same as before. Now, that bustling image is only in my memory and nostalgia," Mr. Duc recalled.

According to Mr. Duc, for a living, all 9 of his children have to work far away, no one of them stays in their hometown to live. As for Mr. Cuong, although 95 years old, he still lives alone in a dilapidated house, because all 4 of his children have "prayed for the truth" for many years. Despite her old age, Mr. Cuong still keeps cutting her hair to make a living. "In the past, sidewalk haircuts were still golden under the bed, now there are only elderly people who love and love each other and cut their hair to support them, only to earn a little money," Mr. Cuong shared.

Nhung can nha co cua Pho Dam van dang duoc luu giu, bao ton. Anh: Quach Du
The ancient houses of Pho Dam are still being preserved and conserved. Photo: Quach Du

According to the representative of Xuan Thien commune's leadership, the rich name Dam street was once famous throughout the region. Later, Dam street was no longer a trading and trading point. From a bustling place, this place has now gradually become a pure agricultural village. The current neighborhood is mainly made up of the elderly and children, while young people and people of working age all work far away.

"Before the 1970s, Dam Street had about 100 ancient houses, but now only 17 houses are still preserved to nearly their original state. On January 7, 2020, Dam Street was recognized by Thanh Hoa province as a provincial-level tourist destination. Currently, the local government is strengthening propaganda work to help people preserve ancient houses, in order to preserve and promote the architectural values of the past Dam street", said a representative of Xuan Thien commune's leadership.

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