Following the boat to the lake area
In the early summer days, the sun spreads golden sunshine on the undulating limestone mountainsides in the middle of the vast Song Da lake. From Bich Ha boat wharf, Tan Hoa ward (Phu Tho), boats connect each other to divert waves to bring tourists to Chua Thac Bo Temple.
The sound of engines harmonizing with the rhythm of water hitting the side of the ship creates the characteristic sound of the lake region. Clear sky, sparse clouds, the water surface shines with a deep blue color, sometimes sparkling like mirror pieces under the sun.
The journey on the lake lasts for more than half an hour. Many tourists choose to stand at the bow of the boat to catch the wind, but there are also tourists who choose to sit on both sides of the boat, slowly, enjoying the feeling of relaxation in the vast space of the river.
When the boat docks, tourists go to the temple to offer incense. After the solemn moments at the temple gate, many people stop at the wharf. Here, the charcoal stoves are already on fire, the smoke of grilled fish spreads fragrance along with the lake breeze.
For many people, the smell of grilled fish is like a familiar mark, signaling that the journey of exploring the lake has truly begun.
Livelihood by the red coal stove
The abundant aquatic resources of Song Da have long become a livelihood for many families along the lake. Fish such as catfish, bamboo fish, mackerel, and catfish grow in a flowing water environment, eating natural food sources, so the meat is firm and sweet.
From long-standing experience, local people have come up with a way to grill fish on charcoal to preserve and serve tourists. Gradually, when mentioning Da River tourism, tourists suddenly remember the specialty grilled fish dish.
The selected fish must be really fresh, just caught from the lake. After cleaning, the fish is rubbed with salt grains and then clipped between two fresh, thinly split bamboo sticks. Forest bamboo is carefully selected, both flexible and fragrant. When grilled on charcoal, the light burnt bamboo fragrance blends with the fish meat, creating a very unique aroma.
The person always grills the fish, turning each bamboo clamp on the charcoal stove. The fire must be kept even, not too big to avoid scorching, and not too small to make the fish dry. The sound of fish fat falling onto the charcoal emits a sizzling sound, thin smoke rising in the wind.
Ms. Ngoc Anh, a grilled fish seller near Thac Bo temple boat wharf, said that the tourist season is the busiest time of the year.
On busy days, we have to grill fish continuously from morning to afternoon. Almost everyone who comes here wants to try grilled Song Da fish, so the kitchen is always on fire" - Ms. Ngoc Anh shared.
According to her, many tourists have become regular customers. Every time they return to Chua Thac Bo Temple, they often find the right familiar address to buy fish.
Flavors that keep tourists
When the fish is cooked, the outer skin turns golden brown and shiny. The seller removes the fish from the bamboo clamp, tears it into bite-sized pieces and places it on a green banana leaf.
Grilled fish from Da River does not need elaborate dipping sauce. Just salt chili or salt doi mixed with mắc khén - a typical spice of the Northwest region - is enough to enhance the flavor. Diners often eat it with piper lolot leaves, sung leaves or some kinds of forest vegetables.
The hot piece of fish, fragrant with charcoal smoke, the rich sweetness mixed with a bit of bitterness of mắc khén makes many people remember it forever.
Mr. Nguyen Van Quyen, a tourist from Hanoi, said that every time he comes to Chua Thac Bo Temple, he puts grilled fish on his must-try list.
Boating on the lake is already very relaxing. But when eating a hot grilled fish right at the wharf, the feeling of the trip is more complete. The fish here tastes very different from the fish raised in the lowlands" - Mr. Quyen said.
Many tourists also choose to sit by the charcoal stove to chat with local people. They ask about the water season, fish season or life by the lake. In those simple stories, the distance between strangers and acquaintances seems to be erased.
In recent years, along with the development of spiritual and ecological tourism around the Chua Thac Bo Temple area, Song Da grilled fish has gradually become a culinary "brand" of the lake region.
Amidst the vast scenery of rivers and waters, the red-hot coal stoves still emit smoke every day. In that smoke, there is not only the aroma of grilled fish but also the rhythm of life of people living along Song Da Lake through many flood seasons.
