Ancient Shan Tuyet tea in the great mountains of Son La

Trường Sơn |

In the mountains and forests of Son La covered in clouds, ancient Shan Tuyet tea forests still silently exist through hundreds of years of rain and sunshine.

Stretching from Ta Xua, On Oc, Ban Leo to Muong Bang, Suoi Leo, each ancient tea region carries its own unique identity but is also a precious gene source, contributing to protecting the primary forest ecosystem, creating sustainable livelihoods, serving experiential tourism and preserving a part of the cultural identity of ethnic minorities in the highlands.

Witnesses" of the mountains and forests

Ancient tea regions in Son La have an area of up to thousands of hectares, mainly distributed at altitudes from 1,000m to nearly 2,000m above sea level - where the climate is cool, fog covers all year round and still retains the natural forest area. Shan Tuyet tea trees are covered with moss, plump, young green, top leaves have a layer of white silk, age from several decades to hundreds of years, growing completely naturally under the forest canopy, not following rows.

In Ta Xua commune, ancient tea trees are scattered in many highland villages such as Be, Chung Chinh, Lang Sang and Ta Xua village. Among them, the 200 ancient Shan Tuyet tea trees have been recognized as Vietnamese Heritage Trees since 2019, with a lifespan of 200 to nearly 300 years. These tea trees grow naturally under the canopy of old forests, and are preserved and protected by the local community as common property through many generations.

In On Oc village, Chieng Hac commune, the ancient Shan Tuyet tea cluster grows precariously, stretching along the slopes of Pha Det mountain. Many trees are more than 15m tall, with white mossy trunks; to harvest, you have to climb up each branch. Tea here has large buds, large leaves, and wide canopy.

In Ban Leo, Van Ho commune, more than 6ha of ancient tea trees growing at an altitude of over 1,800m above sea level are still preserved in the natural forest after many years of being forgotten. Ancient tea trees in Ban Leo stand out with snow-covered white tea shrimp, characteristic flavor, clear blue water, mild and sweet taste.

Especially, in Suoi Leo village, Muong Coi commune, people are preserving over 1,000 Shan Tuyet tea trees from high mountains, many tea trees are so large that 2-3 people cannot hold them, the canopy is wide, the roots are deeply attached to the rocky mountainside. According to the elderly in the village, these tea trees have existed for hundreds of years, associated with the long-term residence process of the local ethnic community.

In Muong Bang commune, there are currently about 11,000 ancient Shan Tuyet tea trees distributed in Lan, Kieng, and Pap villages. These tea trees were discovered before 1958, and are considered an important indigenous gene source, laying the foundation for the sustainable tea development orientation associated with people's livelihoods.

The common point of the ancient tea regions of Son La is that they are closely linked to the natural forest, scattered. Tea only grows well when the forest is still there, therefore, preserving tea is also preserving the forest and preserving the habitat.

Nguoi dan ban Be, xa Ta Xua sao che shan tuyet bang phuong phap truyen thong. Anh: Truong Son
People in Be village, Ta Xua commune make Shan Tuyet sweet soup using traditional methods. Photo: Truong Son

From simple village drinks to sustainable livelihoods

Since ancient times, ancient Shan Tuyet tea has been harvested by people to make drinking water every day or as gifts on holidays and Tet. Then, people bring tea to neighboring communes and districts to exchange for rice and lychees - a common form of goods exchange when trade is still difficult. Tea after harvesting is hand-processed on a cast iron pan, put into bags or fresh lime tubes for preservation, helping to maintain the long-lasting fragrance. That simple way of making tea has formed a unique tea tradition of the highland people.

For a long time, due to the economic value not being properly recognized, many ancient tea regions, including On Oc and Muong Bang, were once abandoned, becoming buffalo and cow grazing grounds, even being cut down to give way to other crops such as corn and cassava. Faced with the risk of a declining precious tea variety, from the period 2010 - 2020, a number of businesses and cooperatives have coordinated with local authorities and people to restore these tea regions. To date, many ancient Shan Tuyet tea products have been certified to meet OCOP standards of 3 stars and 4 stars at the provincial level. Products from ancient Shan Tuyet tea are sold at prices ranging from 600,000 VND to 3 million VND/kg depending on the type, such as Shan Sao Tay tea, Green Tea, Green Tea, White Tea, Green Tea, Green Tea...

In Leo village (Van Ho commune) and Suoi Leo village (Muong Coi commune), people started harvesting ancient tea according to the principle of selective harvesting, not exploiting, and selling to businesses to purchase to process specialty tea. Thanks to that, tea is not only preserved but also brings a stable income to many highland households. In Muong Bang, the commune government supports people to learn tea making, invest in small-scale processing, gradually improve product value, and help local tea have a foothold in the market.

Preserving ancient tea trees is to preserve forests, preserve the highland brand.

Unlike concentrated tea growing areas, ancient Shan Tuyet tea from Son La exists thanks to the organic relationship between tea - forest - people. Therefore, localities all determine that tea development must be associated with forest conservation and cultural identity preservation.

In Ta Xua commune, the protection of ancient tea populations, including 200 tea trees recognized as Vietnamese Heritage Trees, is being implemented in parallel with the goal of brand development. Mr. Do Van Xiem - Chairman of Ta Xua Commune People's Committee - said: "The locality identifies ancient Shan Tuyet tea as a typical product. In the coming time, the commune will continue to strictly protect ancient tea populations, while maintaining and developing the brand of Ta Xua Shan Tuyet tea, enhancing product value, attracting businesses to invest in processing and developing tourism associated with tea".

Not only in Ta Xua, but also in On Oc, Ban Leo or Suoi Leo, people all agree on a convention not to cut down forests to plant tea, harvesting according to proper techniques, without damaging trees. Tea harvesting is entirely by hand, choosing "one shrimp, two leaves", both ensuring quality and prolonging tree life.

From Ta Xua cloud-covered to Suoi Leo old forest, from Pha Det peak of On Oc to Ban Leo tea forest, each ancient Shan Tuyet tea region is a piece of Son La's "green gold" - a property that not only carries economic value but is also a natural and cultural heritage that needs to be preserved for a long time.

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