AN INTERNATIONALIZED PRODUCT
When did Quang noodles appear? That is a question that will never have a satisfactory answer because it is a product of the exchange between many cultures. The name “noodles” in the Quang noodles combination indicates the origin of wheat flour, a food that is not grown in Vietnam in general and Quang Nam in particular.
It could have followed the Chinese or Japanese to a bustling international trading port from the 16th century or earlier when this land was still part of the Champa kingdom in the 9th or 10th century, and there are even conclusions that this trade appeared 2,000 years ago.
The geographical features of the sea and river mouth of Hoi An are convenient for the traffic of large-tonnage ships, along with the ocean currents, favorable climate and open trade policy, turning this place into a link in the commercial routes of international merchant ships.
The largest seaport in Dang Trong - before the geographical changes of rivers and seas appeared and the French built a seaport in Da Nang - became a temporary residence, then a permanent residence for the Chinese, Japanese, Dutch, Spanish... communities who followed merchant ships here.
Even political upheavals also made the internationalization trend in Hoi An stronger. For example, the change of dynasty from Ming to Qing in China created a wave of immigration to Hoi An, forming Minh Huong village communities in this urban area and many other areas in Dang Trong.
Chinese noodles - a popular food similar to Vietnamese rice, along with mantou (a type of steamed cake similar to dumplings also made from wheat flour) - appeared in Hoi An, along with Japanese noodles - a rich noodle cuisine with ramen, udon, soba...
The way of rolling the noodles into strands for cooking was quickly adopted by the local people, however, with a “100% localization” rate. They were not rolled with wheat flour but with rice flour from the wet rice agriculture. This has created a fascinating cultural story for Quang noodles.
It must be clarified that, before the name and dish of Quang noodles appeared, in Vietnam - including the old and new lands - there was absolutely no record of any dish called noodles, even though the method of grinding flour to make stringy ingredients such as vermicelli, rice paper, glass noodles... had existed for a long time.
Even the product called “Chu noodles” from the Chu region of Luc Ngan district (Bac Giang province) has only appeared in the recent past and is essentially still a traditional rice paper of the North. Only since Quang noodles appeared, Vietnamese cuisine has had noodles and only Quang Nam has noodles.
UNIQUE QUANG NOODLES
Quang noodles, as mentioned, are “100% localized” from the production materials to the shape. Quang noodles are made from Xiec rice - a native rice of Quang Nam, not wheat flour. Because of the difference in the materials, the way to make noodles is also different.
Unlike other types of noodles, Quang noodles are made by soaking rice in water for about 4 hours and then grinding or pounding it into flour. This rice flour must be mixed with water in a certain ratio so that when spread, the noodles are neither too wet nor too dry.
Next, boil a pot of hot water, stretch a cloth over the mouth of the pot and scoop a thick ladleful of dough onto it, using the bottom of the ladle to spread it in a circular shape like making banh cuon or banh uot. Then, cover and steam the dough for about 5-7 minutes until the dough is cooked, then use a flat stick to remove the noodles from the cloth.
The noodles are spread about 2 - 3mm thick and placed on a flat surface and rubbed with a little peanut oil to prevent sticking between the noodles and to create a fragrant smell. When the noodles are cool, use a knife to cut them into strands. Therefore, in essence, Quang noodles are hard and a bit dry.
In terms of shape, Quang noodles are flat and wide, similar to rice paper or rice noodles, not round and small like Chinese and Japanese noodles. In terms of color, Quang noodles are basically white, but can also be yellow thanks to turmeric powder or gardenia powder (made from gardenia fruit) to make them more eye-catching.
Thus, it can be seen that Quang noodles are a unique creation of the Quang Nam region based on the inspiration from the noodles that follow the ocean waves. It is noodles but has no noodles, but is definitely the noodles of the Quang people, of the Quang land. A very logical illogicality.
This is achieved thanks to the spirit of harmony, learning and adjustment of folk knowledge to turn a foreign dish into a dish suitable for local products and one's own preferences and eating style. Thanks to that, Quang noodles and a bowl of Quang noodles have a distinct character of Quang Nam people compared to the other 4 "Quangs" of the Central region (Quang Binh, Quang Tri, Quang Duc, Quang Ngai).
Therefore, when Quang Nam people leave their homeland and migrate to other regions to earn a living, they cannot lack Quang noodles in their luggage to preserve the Quang character and memories of their homeland. Since then, Quang noodles are as famous as Hue beef noodles, Hanoi pho, Sa Dec noodles... and have become a geographical identifier.
THE POWER OF QUANG NOODLES
Quang noodles, in addition to its function as a dish, also represent the character of the land, climate of Quang Nam and the Quang people (will be discussed in detail in the next issue). Quang noodles contain a deep community memory and customs and practices that have been passed down for hundreds of years.
Quang noodles have a unique power of association. Many Chinese diners, when eating Quang noodles, remember the famous cold noodles (Liangpi) of Xi'an cuisine (China) because the noodles are also made of rice, have a similar width to Quang noodles, and are eaten dry with thick, spicy sauce and lots of raw vegetables.
Meanwhile, when Japanese people eat Quang noodles, they think of Nagasaki's Champon noodles because of their thick, white noodles. It is necessary to recall a bit of history, Nagasaki is the hometown of merchant Araki Sotaro, who married Princess Ngoc Hoa - the adopted daughter of Lord Sai Nguyen Phuc Nguyen, then followed her husband to live in Nagasaki and was called "Princess Anio".
It is a vestige of the history of Vietnam - Japan trade at the port of Hoi An, expressed through love, marriage, and food. Many others associate Quang noodles with Udon noodles because of the characteristics of the noodles: hard, thick, and chewy, with little broth, and high saltiness.
These things further confirm the high internationalization of Quang noodles. It was inspired by the dishes of the Chinese and Japanese brought to Hoi An, but then developed in its own direction while still showing familiarity and similarity on the world dining table.
That is the reason why Quang noodles are considered one of the 12 Vietnamese dishes that have achieved Asian culinary value. Because Quang noodles have conquered the love of culinary enthusiasts when they put their lips to the colorful tropical noodles of this land of "rain before rain, sunshine".
