Amid the noise of the modern market, that rustic cake still silently retains its traditional flavor, causing today's young people to gradually regain their ancient identity.
Traditional flavor in each cake
For more than 40 years in a small kitchen in Hanoi's Old Quarter, the skillful hands of Ms. Le Thi Hau still wriggle and shape each batch of flour, carefully rolling the mixed goods, pressing the cake into carp wood molds. The whole room is filled with the aroma of lemongrass leaves, Chinese sausage, crispy sugar fat, blended with the sweet scent of honey that has been cultivated for many months.
The process of making moon cakes always starts from the meticulousness in choosing ingredients: Pork fat must be washed with wine to be crispy, melon and sesame seeds are roasted until golden brown, chopped squash jam to keep the texture, thinly sliced on the stove and marinated until just right.
Ms. Hau shared: With sticky rice cake, the sugar water must be cooked many days in advance to cool, then blended with the scent of grapefruit flowers to create a clear, smooth white crust. With baked goods, the flour is especially well stewed, fully covered with mixed filling, when baked, there is a layer of golden brown crust and fragrant aroma".
In particular, Mrs. Hau chose the carp shape as the main mold instead of the familiar pig shape. She said: " scolding is a symbol of perseverance and overcoming difficulties. In folk culture, carp over Vu Mon transform into dragons, as well as humans, if they are patient, will reap success. I want to convey that meaning to each cake".
According to legend, in the past, the Jade Emperor wanted to choose a worthy animal to transform into a dragon to rule the world. He opened a contest, requiring fish species to cross 3 levels of the rapids at Vu Mon Gate. High waves, strong winds, and strong waterfalls caused most fish species to abandon. Only carp have overcome challenges thanks to their bravery and perseverance. When jumping through the last wave, the fish transformed into a dragon, flew into the sky and became a noble mascot.
Therefore, when looking at the carp cake with sophisticated carp and a curved body, people not only see a cake, but also see the whole cultural story recreated in traditional flavors.
The bond between memories and family love
In the modern whirlwind, when the market is flooded with industrial moon cakes with luxurious gift boxes, traditional cakes seem to be pushed back. The bakery in the old town is still quietly open for the two months of the Mid-Autumn Festival, sticking to the old way of doing things.
However, the number of cakes sold each day has not decreased, at least 600 - 700 cakes, some days up to thousands of cakes. The cake has no preservatives, so it can only be kept for about 14 days. Although inconvenient, it is also proof of its true value, for its lively and original flavor.
There were times when Mrs. Hau was upset when customers came to imported cakes, but the younger generation surprised her. Many young people return to the carp cakes of this old bakery not only for the taste but also for the desire to find the memories of union members. On the night of the full moon, the family gathered under the moonlight, cut a catfish cake, steep a cup of black tea and that story was an irreplaceable joy.
Maintaining a profession is not only to make a living, but also to preserve memories and protect the identity of the community - Ms. Hau confided. That belief, along with the respect of today's young generation, has become the motivation for Ms. Hau to continue to persevere with each batch of moon cakes.
The Red Carp mooncakes are simple but as rich as a bridge connecting the past and the present. They remind Vietnamese people of resilience, aspirations to rise up and of the life of union members so that every Mid-Autumn Festival, no matter the change, the old soul always goes hand in hand with the nation.
In the days leading up to the 15th of August, when stepping into Hanoi's Old Quarter, visitors can easily see the brilliant scenery of red lanterns, the tightly hanging foam paper masks, the bustling sound of lion drums and small groups of children riding lanterns. Amidst the bustling crowd, somewhere on each family's tea table, the carp moon cake is lying there, waiting for the moment to join the union.
The bright yellow moonlight, the occasional scent of tea, the laughter of children blend into the stories of adults... All create a symphony of memories, so that Mid-Autumn Festival is not only a festival of light and flavor but also a journey back, finding the original values that have been associated with the Vietnamese people for generations.
