Lao Dong Newspaper had a conversation with Ms. Hoai Thu about her journey to start a career in culinary culture in a foreign land.
The age of 20 traveling abroad
Why did you decide to stay away from your family to stay in Korea?
- I am the youngest child in a purely farming family in Thieu Hoa district, Thanh Hoa province. Therefore, when I was at home, my parents pampered me the most. When I decided to work far away to overcome myself, I knew it would be difficult to receive permission from my parents.
In 1994, I went to Korea as a graduate student and had to pay 7 million VND to buy a flight ticket from Ho Chi Minh City. The sisters also did not dare to let their parents in the countryside worry, so they lent me that money. At that time, 7 million VND was a huge amount.
I learned English in secondary school, so I knew both primary and Korean, didn't know at all, and wasn't supplemented before the trip.
How did your life go in the first years in a foreign country?
- Not only Vietnamese monks but also monks from the Philippines, Sri Lanka, and Bangladesh have come to the land of kimchi to work. However, Korea's economy at that time was not really as good as it is now.
Initially, I worked in a sock workshop with a salary of 150 USD/month. At the age of 21, living away from home, I often have to work the night shift in cold weather with the invisible fear of "not knowing when the night will end" in a factory in the middle of a wild rice field. However, after 10 months of working here, the factory went bankrupt.
After waiting for work for 2 months, I was transferred to a wool dyeing workshop. The salary increased to 360 USD/month, but life was not less difficult. Meals at the factory usually only have rice with kimchi and water, 1 fish meal per week, 1 meat meal per 2 weeks. Many times, in a dormitory, rainwater from the roof leaks and falls on people.
How did you overcome that difficult period?
- Coming to Korea as I want, sometimes I don't dare to say anything when I'm miserable. If I had confided to my sisters, I would have only confided a part. Because I also determined to live my life, not to let my family in the countryside worry.
I myself in Korea know how to make money, so my spirit is also more excited. During the 2 months of waiting for work, colleagues encouraged, helped, and cared for each other.
In addition, I realized that I needed to improve my foreign language, so I asked a local male colleague to teach me Korean.
Building a family and a new turning point
In 1997, she decided to get married and quit her job to stay home and take care of her children. How did that turning point in your life change you?
- The 1997 Asian financial crisis put my husband at a disadvantage. To let my husband alone handle the family's finances, I feel uneasy.
My husband is not rich, we came together because of fate. Therefore, when a friend suggested it, I decided to open a Vietnamese restaurant to share the financial burden with my husband.
In 2002, I borrowed 20,000 USD from my sister to "hold hands" in my own dream. My father cooks very well, so I called him to ask him how to cook rice cook as well as buy a book to learn more recipes for other traditional dishes. I also went to find the site myself and asked for the source to import the raw materials.
Has the journey started smoothly, Sister?
- At first, when I opened the restaurant, I didn't have much time to sleep, and one day I fell asleep on the floor. I even had to ask my neighbor to help look after my child. Until now, when the children are grown up, I sometimes blame myself for their incomplete childhood.
The Hometown restaurant was initially just a small restaurant in the market and I also sold dry Asian foods to earn more income to cover my living expenses.
Putting the difficulties aside, my restaurant has begun to receive great attention from diners. In particular, on weekends, customers come to the restaurant only to enjoy pho. At that time, the customer base was mainly Vietnamese and Philippine.
A bowl of pho at that time was very cheap, I only sold it for 5,000 won. I open my shop very early at 8am (usually Korean restaurants open from 10am - PV) and close at 11 - 12am at night. The restaurant is in the market, convenient for those who work the night shift or when they come to drink alcohol. At one point, the restaurant's revenue reached 1 million won.
This bowl of pho has brought Que Huong restaurant to the pinnacle of fame?
- Since appearing on MBC's "Hot Topics" program in 2005 and OBSTV, MBN channels..., the restaurant's pho has increasingly attracted a large number of Korean diners.
In 2015, after being broadcast on tvN's "Wednesday Night Food Story", the restaurant "exploded" in terms of number of customers. A long line of people lined up in front of our restaurant to eat pho, even volunteering to wait for more than 30 minutes in the cold of Korean winter.
Until now, I am still the one who is close to the pot of pho broth next to the chef. From choosing beef ong bones, washing bones, boiling bones, simmering bones for 12 hours or beef must be lean meat because Koreans do not eat fatty meat, dried porridge, cardamom must be imported from Vietnam, I have always paid more attention for 20 years.
How has the family helped you on your journey to success?
- A while after opening a restaurant at the market, I had to take my sister to Korea to help look after her child and sell goods together. My husband helps his wife during the day at work and at night when he comes home.
Two years later, the restaurant was moved to a double the size of the old one and located in the center of Ansan. The menu is also supplemented with other dishes such as banh xeo, bun cha... to be more diverse and richer.
Since 2016, other branches have been opened but have been closed due to the impact of the COVID-19 epidemic. I am currently only focusing on the store in Ansan as well as my health.
I spent a lot of time returning to Vietnam to visit my family as well as travel, experiencing new dishes myself, then coming home to figure out how to make and give the recipes to the chef. Therefore, we have regular customers who have eaten at the restaurant for as many years as the restaurant has opened.
Expanding arms to welcome Vietnamese brides
Despite being busy with her own work, why did she still decide to establish the Vietnam Women's Union in Ansan?
- Living up all my life for the people around me is also a present joy of mine. I also have another lucky thing: any decision I make is supported by my husband and daughters.
On October 19, 2019, I decided to establish the Vietnam Women's Union in Ansan and took on the responsibility of President. Initially, the association was established with 60 members. When I travel to other countries, I observe that wherever they are, they have an organization to show mutual love.
The Association was established with the purpose of supporting single mothers who raise children due to divorce or husbands who have passed away, are abused by their husbands, visit when sick, give gifts and money during the Mid-Autumn Festival and Tet to encourage them mentally.
What problems are there that you hope will be resolved soon?
I hope the women will have a group to help each other improve their work as well as a place to confide, exchange, and gather on holidays. Brides who have been in Korea for a long time, are good at Korean and understand the law, always extend their arms to help their less fortunate compatriots.
Although I am far from home, my heart is always turned towards Vietnam and my compatriots.
