Nima Rinji Sherpa's ears were still purple from the cold. This is a common phenomenon when climbing to high altitudes where breathing becomes difficult due to lack of oxygen and the weather can change dangerously in a matter of seconds.
This October, 18-year-old Nepali Nima became the youngest person to summit all 14 of the world’s highest peaks. The young climber is ready to tackle the new challenge.
On October 9, Nima successfully climbed the 8,027-meter-high Shishapangma peak with his companion Pasang Nurbu Sherpa. For Nima, this is the last of the 14 peaks recognized by the International Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) as being higher than 8,000 meters above sea level.
Describing the moment he finally reached the summit as “absolute joy”, Nima said his family motivated him as many of his relatives were famous climbers.
Nima's father, Tashi Lakpa Sherpa, has summited Everest nine times and at the age of 19 became the youngest person to reach the summit without supplemental oxygen. His uncle, Mingma Sherpa, became the first South Asian climber to summit all 14 peaks above 8,000m in 2011.
“My father and uncles are much more successful than me, even though they come from a small village. Even dreaming of such success, for them, is really difficult. I am lucky to have more advantages than them,” Nima shared.
Sherpa story
Sherpas in Nepal are people who have lived in the high Himalayas for generations, working as guides and porters for foreign tourists who want to climb mountains in the region.
Their name has become synonymous with mountaineering. Sherpas are often the backbone of international mountaineering expeditions, carrying heavy equipment and supplies up mountains and guiding people to summits in dangerous conditions.
But they often don't get the recognition or rewards that Western climbers deserve.
Despite his world-record-breaking achievement, Nima's climb failed to attract major sponsors, so much of the funding and logistical support for the trip relied on his father's company, 14 Peaks Expedition.
“Everyone says Sherpas are superheroes, but how many Sherpas are chosen to be the face of a brand or a sponsored athlete? None,” Nima said.
Nima said he hopes he can inspire other young Sherpa climbers to realize their potential as professional athletes and climbers, not just being seen as support staff for mountaineering tourists.
He also hopes to use his achievement to “open doors” for other Nepali climbers: “Because sometimes in life, you have a moment when you think the community is more important than yourself, and that's what I'm aiming for, that's what I hope for.”
Journey of Conquest
Nima began his remarkable journey in September 2022, when he first climbed Nepal’s 8,163-meter Manaslu. Over the next two years, he conquered all of the remaining 8,000-meter peaks (a total of 14 UIAA-recognized peaks above 8,000 meters), including the world’s highest peak, Everest, at 8,849 meters, and the notoriously dangerous K2, at 8,611 meters.
The 18-year-old reached the summits of Everest and Lhotse, at 8,516m, on the same day – just 10 hours apart – and climbed five other peaks in less than five weeks.
“When I climbed Everest, it was dark, so the view from the top of the mountain was not beautiful. Since we had to climb the next mountain, we were in a hurry. I took some pictures... but in my mind, I was thinking about the next mountain I would climb,” Nima recalled.
His favorite peak is Annapurna, at 8,091m, climbed without bottled oxygen.
“For a 17-year-old, climbing without oxygen is not recommended. Annapurna is where I felt really strong... It was really one of the most beautiful, amazing mountains for me,” Nima said, adding that the last 200m was the hardest, “because I spent 20 hours without oxygen in my brain.”
The young man shared that at that time he felt like nothing could stop him and he kept walking faster than the others in the group.
But the mountains “always find a reason to humble you. Regardless of the beauty of the mountains or the success of the conquest, this is always a dangerous sport,” the young climber emphasized.
Nima and his climbing partner Pasang were caught in a couple of avalanches on Annapurna. He injured his arm before climbing Shishapangma and because he had not taken enough water, he developed cramps. While climbing the last 700 metres up the 8,126m Nanga Parbat without a rope, Nima slipped on an ice patch.
At altitudes above 8,000m for extended periods of time – so dangerous that it is called the “death zone” – the human body begins to shut down. The thin air starves the brain and lungs of oxygen, which can lead to death.
Nima describes being at altitudes above 8,000m as being for “those who can endure the longest”.
When the temperature drops below minus 16 degrees Celsius and the wind blows at 100km/h, that is when the physical ability of the climber slows down but their mental strength will rise.
“Maybe I like this challenge,” the young man admitted, laughing.
Future legacy
Nepal is at the cusp of a climate crisis, with rising temperatures causing Himalayan glaciers to melt rapidly and devastating floods increasingly affecting millions of people.
The growing number of tourists visiting Nepal brings much-needed revenue to the country and its locals, but also brings with it tons of waste that threatens the fragile mountain ecosystem.
Nima hopes his generation can leave a more lasting legacy for the next generation.
“You can see a lot of problems… Hopefully the younger generation, like me and other young people, we will try to push this industry and make it more sustainable for future generations,” Nima said.
His dream is to set up an organization that funds training and technical facilities to help young Nepalis pursue mountaineering and guiding careers safely.
In 2024, Nepalese climbers broke several records in the Himalayas. Dawa Yangzum Sherpa became the youngest Nepali woman to climb all 14 peaks. Mingma G Sherpa - Nima's uncle - became the first Nepali to climb all 14 peaks without bottled oxygen. And Phunjo Jhangmu Lama climbed Mount Everest in a record 14.5 hours.
Nima said he dreams that Nepalese climbers will receive the same attention and care as professional Western climbers and that he believes the younger generation will make it happen.
“The older generation were pioneers, and we young people are following the path they have laid out. But I am happy that I am living in this moment, a lot is happening in the field of mountaineering. And as the younger generation, we will always strive to do something better,” the young Nepalese man affirmed.
